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Tuesday, December 03, 1996

December 3, 1996- Bahia de Tortugas, Baja California

December 3,1996-Turtle Bay

The boat is gently rocking, the wind has died off to just a breeze. Tonight we are anchored in Bahia de Tortugas (Turtle Bay) on the west coast of Baja. This big bay, closed on three sides, provides protection from the ocean swells, and is one of the best anchorages we’ve been in since leaving the Northwest, and we are happy to be here.

There are ten or twelve boats anchored nearby, dark shapes barely visible in the deepening shade of the evening. With the binoculars I sweep the harbor, and I am able to pick each boat out of the gloom. Some of them have lights glowing from their port holes, and one by one they will also turn on anchor lights.

The town is a string of pearls on the north shore and the surrounding hills have finally disappeared in the darkness. Earlier we watched as the sun got lower and turned the hills and other geographic features of this place into deep colors and shadows.

I return below where we are listening to the stereo, and drinking Tequila. There are no sounds outside, it is quiet and it seems very big and empty out there.

This is a very peaceful place, Bahia de Tortugas

December 8, 1996-Magdelina Bay

I sat on deck drinking coffee and listening to Javier’s rooster crowing at sunrise today in Magdelena Bay, 250 miles down the coast from Turtle Bay. I think it was Javier’s rooster because everyone has a few roosters, and there are plenty of Javiers.

Listening to Javier’s rooster (or Julio’s), I watched the sky, the clouds tinged with gold, and the mist on the mountain tops behind town. This town is smaller and quieter than Turtle Bay. Can that be possible?

I like to have my coffee as the sun comes up, at sea or at anchor.

We sailed here from Turtle Bay in 42 hours and I saw two sunrises. Beside the sunrises, it was a good passage. We sailed all the way and we beat all the other boats which coming here too. We also caught a Bonita on the way, which we barbequed last night, and it was delicious.

We’ll stay here a couple of days then sail on to Cabo San Lucas, only 30 hours away now.

Fred & Judy, SV WINGS, Baja

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